VISITING ITALY FOR THE FIRST TIME
Italians make it look so effortless. Sipping cappuccinos, cruising on Vespas, chatting in sunlit piazzas and pretty much always looking good. One of the attractions of visiting this beautiful country, alongside Italian food and wine, the landscape, the art, the history and the embarrassing plethora of famous monuments, is the lifestyle of the locals. When we think of visiting Italy for the first time we want to feel the Mediterranean water on our toes, we dream of tasting a series of Chianti wines at source, we imagine ourselves gazing at original works of Botticelli in Florence or walking into the Pantheon in Rome, but let’s face it, there’s also a part of us that wants to be a little bit Italian while we do it.
On the whole, the only people seen rushing around (and often sweating) in Italy are tourists, and the first thing Italians will tell you is to relax and take your time. I know holidays are precious and we feel the need, and sometimes pressure, to make every minute of every day count, making sure you fit in all the ‘places you must visit in Italy’, but there is also something to be said about savouring a few unique, rare moments and just letting yourself be, in a wonderful place.
Italy needs to be enjoyed stress free, wherever possible, but this isn’t automatic just because the locals seem so chilled. The fact is, they just know the secrets. They know how things work. They know how to play the game.
When visiting Italy for the first time you want to get the very best out of your vacation. Here is my selection of gems of local knowledge to avoid unnecessary stress, and live like the locals…
VALIDATE YOUR TICKET! Public transport can be tricky if you are travelling to Italy for the first time.
1. AVOID EMBARASSING MOMENTS AT THE BAR
Italian bars and cafés are organized in sections. Don’t expect to walk up to the bar, ask for a coffee and a slice of torta della nonna then hand over your cash. You have to work in steps. It’s a hygiene thing and once you get the hang of it, it makes sense. In most places one figure, il cassiere/la cassiera, stands at the helm la cassa, (the cash register – which you’ll often see translated in signs misleadingly as CASH), he or she appears to oversee the other sections and is your first port of call. That is, if you already know what you want. If you don’t know, and you want to browse the lines of fresh sandwiches and cakes (from the food section) and contemplate what format of caffeine to accompany your snack (from the bar section) then do this first, but don’t order it, yet. When you have (mentally) chosen your delights you tell il cassiere/la cassiera who will take payment and issue your scontrino (receipt). You can then visit the food section, order and hand over your scontrino for them to check. If you need to proceed to the bar section they rip your scontrino to acknowledge their part, hand it back and you head to the bar. Here you hold your scontrino in the air and try to catch the barista’s eye. These guys are very, very busy so don’t always expect to be asked what you want. You just go ahead and shout it out so someone hears. You’ll usually get a nod to let you know you’re in! You give over your scontrino again and they either rip it again or throw it away. Job done. Most bars have tables where you can sit once you’ve collected your orders for no extra fee. There is a difference to be aware of however between service al banco (bar service) and service al tavolo (table service). Basically if someone takes your order and brings it to you at the table, you’ll pay extra (a lot extra if you choose a front row seat in one of Italy’s famous piazzas) and you’ll pay at the end.
2. AVOID THE GELATO MOUNTAINS
Don’t be wooed by the mountains of gelato in window displays often found in central tourist spots. Authentic gelato should not be able to stay heaped up like that for so long and needs a constant regulated temperature. The good stuff is stored in under the counter refrigerated compartments, often with lids on. Remember you can always ask to taste flavours before you buy. Be prepared to be asked first off if you want a cono (cone) or a coppetta (cup), what size you’d like (indicated by the price) and how many flavours. This way, you don’t hold up a queue! “Io prendo un cono da 3€ con pistacchio, mandorla e caffè” – for example.
3. THERE ISN’T ALWAYS A BACK OF THE LINE
Apart from entrances to museums and tourist attractions you won’t come across many observed queues. Don’t expect to wait patiently in line to order your coffee or for people to give way or yield at a road junction. You may be waiting a long time. It’s all very Carpe Diem when it comes to getting things and going places so be prepared to make your voice heard and your actions seen. You won’t appear rude – there are many Italian hand gestures that take care of that bit.
4. RESEARCH OPENING TIMES AND SEASONAL TIMETABLES
Italy is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, attracting over 90 million visitors a year but this doesn’t mean that everything you want to see is accessible 24/7. One of Italy’s strengths is how workers are treated. Decent lunch breaks and annual paid leave mean that some offices, attractions, restaurants and museums are closed, in the middle of summer, or in the middle of the day. Many parts of the country also observe the 2.5 day weekend where things stay closed until Monday afternoons or even Tuesday morning. When deciding on the the places you must visit in Italy, be aware of seasonal timetables too, especially when it comes to accessing some of the islands on public transport.
5. VALIDATE PUBLIC TRANSPORT TICKETS
This is a classic and, in my opinion, one of the most important rules to remember when visiting Italy for the first time. Checks have become stricter and more regular and I’ve been (innocently) caught out a few times, having to fork out 50 euros on the spot. Before boarding a bus, tram or train in Italy you need to have a) purchased a ticket and b) VALIDATED it, which means inserting it into the designated machine on the train or tram platform or on board the bus, as soon as you board. No validation for the inspector means no ticket and a fine. Tourists used to be let off for simply not knowing, but signage in public transport terminals has made it clear there is no tourist mercy and let’s face it, if you’ve spent money on a train ticket and get fined for not ‘stamping’ it, it’s going to sting a bit.
6. HOT IN THE CITY
When planning on visiting Italy for the first time we can all imagine ourselves wandering through the sunlit streets of Rome or Florence in summer clothes feeling the warm air. Remember that summer months in Italy can see temperatures around 40 degrees C/ 100 F, especially in the cities, sending locals indoors until after 5 or 6pm. It’s a good idea to check ahead that your accommodation has air conditioning and mosquito nets so you can keep windows open at night. Pack some bug spray too. Don’t plan lots of walking for the early afternoons and remember to hydrate, use sunhats and sunscreen, or simply sync with the Italian clock, taking a well earned nap after lunch, starting the day again later in the afternoon, refreshed, when the intense heat has eased slightly, the streets start to bustle with life and the famous aperitivo is served which, in my book, is THE best moment of every day.
7. EAT LIKE AN ITALIAN
This is harder for some and easier for others but probably the piece of advice I would trade in all the others for. Italians know what they are doing when it comes to food. Their very essence is founded on it. They live a long time. Trust them. Eat steak (and any meat) as they cook it – you can do it, just once. In places like Tuscany they are FAMOUS for it and you can actually TASTE what a steak TASTES like! If pink or red meat doesn’t sit well with you, go for a slow cooked wild boar stew or peposo or try something new like an artichoke carpaccio, a primo with puntarelle, anchovies and burrata, saltimbocca, melanzane alla parmigiana, truffle pasta or a recommendation from your waiter that you’ve never tried. Listen to their recommendations of contorni (side dishes) and look at what the Italians on the next table have ordered and get curious!
8. DAYTRIPPING – BE SELECTIVE ABOUT THE PLACES YOU MUST VISIT IN ITALY
Places you must visit in Italy, if you can, include the famous cities of Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice and Naples. These days the excellent high-speed train services from Trenitalia (Frecciarossa, Frecciargento etc.) and Italo mean you can easily travel between these major cities in a matter of hours, making them attractive day trip options. The best time to travel to Venice depends on what you plan to do. In February the carnival fills the streets with unbelievable theatre and beauty, but also with crowds. Spring or late summer are the best months for temperatures but you will most likely encounter the waves of cruise ship passengers. Christmas tends to see a slow of tourists and a very sparkling city. Just be prepared to see the waters rise and bring warm clothes! The best time to travel to Venice may therefore not be the most obvious. My advice is not to plan a day trip for each day of your stay in Italy, unless you have opted for one of Alma Italia Travel’s weekly itineraries, where everything is taken care of for you. Take a day in between to just get to know the area where you are staying, maybe checking out some of the local sagre (food festivals) like a sagra del fungo porcino (porcini mushroom festival), which always provide an abundance of genuine atmosphere, good food and a unique insight into local traditions.
9. ‘IL CONTO’ CONUNDRUM
Seeing as you will be eating out a fair bit, you should understand the different elements that appear on il conto (your bill) if visiting Italy for the first time. The coperto is a standard cover charge per person and includes the cost of bread (and sometimes tap water – which is drinkable in most of Italy). Servizio is the service charge included on the bill, already calculated. Although it is not customary to leave a tip (mancia) in Italy, it is always appreciated. Italians don’t usually work on a percentage however, they often just round things up to the nearest euro or 5 euro.
10. DON’T EXPECT TO FEED KIDS EARLY
If you’re travelling with young kids and visiting Italy for the first time, don’t expect to be able to eat dinner out at 5.30pm everywhere. Although restaurants generally are very children friendly, some don’t open until 7.30pm so make sure you do a bit of research beforehand on eateries that stay open throughout the afternoon. Alternatively, if it works for you, slip into the Italian rhythm and work with a later bedtime, for everyone, and enjoy a Negroni or two!
11. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Take a look at the public holiday calendar, including regional variations, which could affect closures, transport and other public services. The big ones to bear in mind are: August 15 or Ferragosto which often stretches over the nearest weekend, May 1 – Labour Day, June 2 – Republic Day and November 1 – All Saints’ Day.
12. LISTEN TO THE LOCALS AND LET THEM ENTERTAIN YOU!
Always remember that when visiting Italy for the first time, asking a trusted local where their favourite place is to eat the perfect steak, to taste the best wine, to admire the best view or to escape the heat, will often lead you to the best kept secrets and most treasured experiences.
Alma Italia Travel are your trusted locals and will be happy to share many more invaluable pieces of advice about the places you must visit in Italy and further tips when visiting Italy for the first time. We can’t wait to hear from you!
Contact us here to start planning your dream Italy trip.
