The Sublime North Italy: Why You’re Missing Out

The Romantic writers and painters of the early 19th century were fascinated by the notion of ‘the sublime’; the awe and wonder you might feel at the sight of soaring mountains, or lakes that reflect forests of pine trees hemming a quiet shoreline. Some are moved to contemplate their place in a wild cosmos; others see the hand of God Himself.

Having travelled much of the world, one of the best places to experience the sublime is Northern Italy. The regal upswing of the Dolomites, the depths and stillness of Lake Como or Garda… It is difficult to go wrong. Having been on many Private Tours Italy, I don’t mind admitting that this is my favourite part of the country.

And it is not even close.

Dolomite peaks at Twilight. Perfect for fun in the summer and the winter

The Heights

The skyline of Northern Italy defies description, but bear with me as I try. Even when the sun is low in the sky, it throws a golden haze over the snow capped ridges. The jagged crevices that cut into the mountainside are plunged into shadow, and the relief looks more oil painting than real life. As you stand in awe, and take a deep breath of alpine air, you will know the sublime at long last. You have stumbled across the Dolomites, where mountains rise like monolithic sculptures over sprawling green fields.

In the summer, the walks around the different peaks will leave you breathless (in more ways than one). But don’t panic. You can drive to near the top and walk the rest. It’s slightly cheating, but if you work up a sweat walking out of the carpark no one will know. Do make sure that you see Cinque Torri, an ancient gigantic pillar of stone which rises into the air dwarfing everything in its vicinity. Similarly, the Lago di Sorapiss is a lake nestled into the hills filled with glacial water of liquid cyan. When you’re on one of our Private Tours Italy, you will see them all.

In the winter, the skiing is on par with the finest Europe has to offer. It shouldn’t come as a surprise, given that Switzerland or Austria lie but a stone’s throw away. The hills of Italy are also alive with the sound of music; the gentle sound of cowbells, the wind swelling through the valleys like a long slow deep breath. Happily, you get all the sights and smells of these more northern countries, whilst paying a fraction of the price. I have skied from the Swiss town of Zermatt across the Italian border into Cervinia to pay a fraction of the price for a cup of coffee. It’s the same terrain, same beauty, but wildly different hits to the back pocket. Consider visiting Cortina d’Ampezzo for some of the best tree runs you will find anywhere in the world. And when you finish for the day, the town itself feels old and new at the same time; traditional alpine architecture and chalets line the main street which is for pedestrians only. The restaurants and bars are far more ‘big city’ than ‘small town’. It feels like a European Aspen. Or given that it is centuries older, perhaps Aspen feels more like an American Cortina.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Northern Italy is the blending of cultures. In the last hundred years, the border has shifted, and many residents consider themselves more culturally Austrian or Swiss than Italian. I once asked a hotelier who they would cheer for in the World Cup. He shrugged. “Italy? Austria? both!” Their open mindedness is your gain, as this extends into the cuisine of the region. Of course, you will still find authentic Italian pizza and pasta anywhere you stop, and it is to die for. But if you ask with a ‘bitte schon’, you could find yourself with a plate of wurst, pork knuckle and Schupfnudeln. Variety is, as they say, the spice of life after all.

The Lakes
When shooting the 007 film Casino Royale, the Location Scout was tasked with finding the most peaceful, tranquil place in the world. It had to be the quintessence of calm. The result? Lake Como. Or more specifically, the Villa del Balbianello. The luxurious villa, complete with peacocks and handcrafted masonry, sits on the shores of Lake Como, and sums up the region perfectly; beautiful, and much less pretentious than it should be. The lake itself runs for 47 kilometres north to south, and when you stroll along the footpath that traces its outline, you will come across unassuming little towns pretty regularly. I had the good fortune of stumbling across an olive oil press just off the path, and walked away with some of the most delectable oil of my life. These little gems are yours to discover, and the best part is, when you’ve walked far enough, you can just get a boat back to your town. If you’re not the walking type, you can while away the hours on your doorstep. The water is clear, very swimmable, and because there is over 160 km of shoreline, you never have to share!

Como isn’t the only lake in one of our Private Tours Italy that will send your soul into raptures (that sounds hyperbolic, but once you’ve visited, you’ll see it is more than reasonable.) To the east lies Lake Garda, which is best experienced from the old town of Sirmione. Protected by the 13th century fortress Scaligero castle, Sirmone is a town which is organised for opulence. Whether it be single scoops of gelato easily bigger than a grown man’s fist, or the cocktail bars that sit on the shoreline, you get a little bit of that mediterranian vibe from down south. Lay yourself down on the sand, with the region’s signature cocktail the Hugo in hand (elderflower, mint, and lime; thank me later) as the water gently laps around you. You could be almost anywhere in the world. But luckily, you aren’t. You are in Northern Italy. 

And you wouldn’t trade it for anything.

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