A FOOD AND WINE LOVER’S GUIDE TO TUSCANY
Italians are dedicated to food. It unites them, it excites them, it heals them, it defines them. My son, at 18 months old, had a chef at his (state run) kindergarten in Florence who held weekly meetings to decide menus based on nutrition. At home I was asked why we didn’t have spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) like ‘Pippo made’ at school. Lunchtime is part of the curriculum. Food is taught. Food is loved. Food also goes hand in hand with wine, although a little later than 18 months old.
THE TASTE OF TUSCANY
We know that few countries surpass Italy when it comes to national cuisine. It is no surprise the worldwide love for Italian food and wine remains one of the most cited reasons to visit this stunning peninsular; from the coastal, zesty lemons of the south to the fine cheeses of the alpine pastures in the north. The region of Tuscany lies somewhere in the middle. Although more well known for its meat, Tuscany’s vast stretch of west coast offers delicious, fresh fish and seafood dishes, the most famous being Cacciucco from Livorno; a fish and seafood stew with tomato sauce, often served with garlic bread and a glass of red wine. Across the lush countryside and forests and up the snow peaked mountains of central Tuscany you will find truffles, game, wild boar, cured meats, cheeses, tomatoes, grapes and olives of the highest quality. Food and wine in Tuscany offers a rich variety of traditions and pure, seasonal ingredients. Tuscan food is renowned for its simplicity, where quality speaks for itself. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine T-bone steak) often takes centre stage, majestic in both aspect and flavour, sprinkled with salt and drizzled with good olive oil, no fuss. The humble Pappa al Pomodoro (tomato and bread stew), relic of the ‘cucina povera’, will be found in most eateries; succulent tomatoes and incredible olive oil, offering the ultimate comfort food. Fresh truffles, lightly shaved over handmade tagliolini with, naturally, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil (EVO) is also a ‘must taste’ when it comes to Tuscan food.
STRAIGHT TO THE ROOTS OF TUSCAN FOOD
Given that Italian food and wine plays such an important part in your vacation experience, make sure you dive right in. The beautiful towns and cities of Tuscany will spoil you for choice when it comes to bars, trattorias and restaurants but, tempting as it is, don’t just eat out at lovely restaurants all the time. Go off track and head for where the food and wine is produced. A very short drive out of the main towns and into the undulating countryside opens up a whole new culinary playground, dotted with traditional, working farms where you can hear the stories, breathe in the herb gardens, pick the olives, taste the wines and feel the love! A true Tuscan food and wine experience is witnessing the ‘seed to fork’ journey and kindling a new sensibility to what you are eating. It always seems to make it taste better too! We at Alma Italia Travel can show you exactly where to go.
CHIANTI
The popular area of Chianti (nicknamed Chiantishire by the Brits) sits largely between the three towns of Florence, Siena and Arezzo in a sort of triangle and is most famous for its wine production, beautiful medieval towns and picture perfect olive groves. ‘Chianti Classico’ is one of the seven sub-zones of the larger Chianti area, sitting at its very heart and the iconic ruby red wines produced here bear the recognisable black rooster seal. Panzano is just one of the picturesque villages in this area where wine is a way of life. With a population of just over 1000, it is surrounded by 500 hectares of vineyards and more than twenty (mostly organic) wineries producing world class wines. I always try to visit in the third week of September when the small, central piazza hosts the acclaimed ‘Vino al Vino’ festival with producers proudly showing off the fruits of their labour. You pay once for an empty glass and take it from stall to stall tasting as much as you like, for as long as you like. Then, a little tipsy, you decide if and what to buy! The unbelievable prices make it even more irresistible.
TUSCANY, THE GRACIOUS HOST
Many aziende vinicole (wine farms) are also ‘agriturismi’ with restaurants, accommodation, swimming pools, spas, and other forms of hospitality. Not far down the winding road from Panzano are some of my favourites, offering the quintessential Tuscan food and wine experiences ‘all under one roof’. You can see the vineyards, everywhere, you can pick the grapes, you can taste the wines, you can stroll amongst the barrels in the cellars (and sometimes taste directly from there), you can visit the orto (vegetable garden), you can see the chef making your pasta, you can even make the pasta yourself! Later you can ponder over the spinach and ricotta ravioli or the wild boar pappardelle (or you can choose both!), you can taste more of the wine that you’ve identified as your favourite, into the night…and you can fall into one of the sumptuous beds, in the silence of the countryside, to be woken up to a soft sun and a faint smell of fresh coffee and warm fruit crostata (lattice pastry tart) using jam made from mixed berries from the garden, of course, possibly followed by a dip in the pool. We at Alma Italia Travel can bring you straight here for a day, a weekend or for as long as part of a longer Italy trip.
Italians are dedicated to food. It unites them, it excites them, it heals them, it defines them.
WHY WINE TOURS IN TUSCANY SHOULD BE TOP OF YOUR LIST
In Tuscany, where there is good wine there is good food (and vice versa). A wine tour can easily provide a complete gastronomic experience. Even the smallest family producers will usually offer a plate of something local during a tasting, even if it is a simple fettunta; lightly toasted bread with fresh olive oil, salt and fresh garlic (one of my favourites). Most larger wineries have restaurants where you can spend the best part of your day enjoying a tasting lunch or dinner, where they will proudly help you navigate between the wine labels and accompanying freshly prepared dishes. Whether you choose to discover the premium quality Super Tuscans of Bolgheri or explore other DOC Tuscan wine regions including Chianti, Chianti Classico, Carmignano, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or San Gimignano, Alma Italia Travel is excited to be able to bring you to the doors of the producers to experience Tuscan food and wine at its best.
COOKING CLASSES IN TUSCANY
Depending on how active you’re feeling or how much wine tasting you’ve done the day before (even though I must admit these smooth, organic, Tuscan grapes never seem to create a hangover), cooking classes in Tuscany are one of the most enjoyable and memorable ways to immerse yourself in the Tuscan food and wine culture. Roll fresh gnocchi, string up fresh spaghetti, learn the secrets of the ultimate ragù, bake your own rosemary focaccia, discover the simplicity of the perfect tomato sauce or create your own Cantucci biscuits. See how much effort and love goes into what is served on your plate. Cooking is an art form and nowhere is the canvas as wide as in Italy. A cookery class will give you a unique insight into this cultural legacy, learning from the masters as they literally let you taste the passion of their craft.
WE CAN GIVE YOU THE ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE
The most authentic and memorable experiences of Tucany’s food and wine are so accessible when you know where to look. The simple truth is that we know where to take you and how to get you there. We take care of everything.
Imagine yourself dining in the warm summer air, on a terrace in Tuscany. The waitress is proposing a local wine, to perfectly accompany your appetizer of ingredients picked from the garden below, as she casually points to the geometrical pattern of vines in the fields just behind you. “This wine is from there”, she says with a smile. “You can taste the warm sun on the skin of the grapes and the notes of cherry fruit if you just let it breathe a little… Buon appetito!”. She places the bottle on the table and leaves you to just sit, smile and swill the glass as you close your eyes and breath it all in, while the sun now warms your skin.
BOOK HERE: Wine Tours with Alma Italia Travel
Article by Joëlle Edwards
Tuscan recipe #1
Fagiolini in umido (French beans in tomato sauce)
Perfect as a side dish or a healthy topping for a homemade crostino (open toasted sandwich)
Ingredients
800g French beans
1 Carrot
1 Red onion
400g (1 can) Peeled tomatoes
8 tbsp Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Pepper
Method
-Chop the tails off the beans and wash well
-Finely chop the carrot and onion
-Chop up the tomatoes (if whole)
-Add all the ingredients to a large pan with the olive oil, salt and pepper (not adding water)
-Cover and cook on a medium heat for 45 mins – 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until the beans are soft